Windmill Running and Autostop Problems

Yeah I know, there’s alot of posts with this problem, but I’ve read most and are still looking for answers. When I start my press without feeding and suction off, it runs for a few second and kicks off. This is what Ive found so far, the Automatic Stop Lever (pt 1647) has worn (slightly rounded) on the bottom edge where the Lever for Throw Off (pt 1648) rides. Ive also noticed that the throw off lever is sitting only about 5/16 up on the Stop lever. With the slight bouncing motion of the Stop Lever and the rounded edge, AND the fact Throw Off Lever is not sitting very high up. I can see it kicking off. BUT what should be replaced or repaired first. Can I file down the Stop lever to remove the beveled edge?
Also if thats not enough the automatic stop adjusting screw does nothing when adjusted in any position. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks and have found none. So I will disassemble and clean that. As most of you can tell Im not new to the windmill, just these specific problems, any assistance would help. THANKS

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the outer most part on the lever itself wont need so much attention but the cam part which lifts when you open the nameplate guard will almost certainly need looking at .
This is your best route first check that the cable running from the guard to that toggle is not too tight , if its proves to be ok , then the best fix ,unless you want to waste money you dont need to is take the stepped toggle off (i cant be bothered to look for the part no as you seem to realise the part is responsible ,) build up the worn area carefully with a stick welder and small rod (low amp) and more carefully grind the step back to the proper height . this is not so difficult if you can weld a little ,it does not have to take stress and will outlast you once done . Ok so i did not read properly you know the part no too.
are you where in the world ?
Any queries on this please feel free to get in touch . I do this fix regularly and if need be i can send a re built one if you cover post from UK and promise to return the worn one to go mback into my sstock for another fix .
Regards peter L
Oh yes do observe the angle is not quite 90 deg this is quite important . also look at the bar the engage drive lever (big handle ) runs on does it still appear round or has the top flattened off considerably ? Also is the lever moving up and down when the flywheel rotates in drive ?

Peter, Its nice to be able to communicate to someone who knows what in talking about. One of the first things I had to do was adjust that cable. When I first got the machine the cable was so tight the guard wouldnt stay up. Now it stays up with another 1/4 inch of cable slack. The question I still have is how far up should the Throw off lever sit on the Stop lever? Thanks for the response!
Greg, Ohio

I have checked for main lever roundness and so far it hasnt flattened out at all. And, the lever arm coming off the flywheel has no movement to it when running, but the throw off lever does bounce when it running.

Well ive been working on her for a while now and have come to a couple of conclusions If the trip piston would come out more than 1/8 of an inch I would have the trip off working. I fixed the problems with the press not staying running with simple of adjustments. But found out a couple of things…
(1) Oil is you friend, something the previous owner didnt realize.
(2) You obtain more vacuum if the clamps on the hoses are actually tight!
Some people simply shouldnt print!!!

I think you are fighting neglect as you said we are all guilty there , The safety guard should begin to lift the trip block (1648)? at 1/4 of its travel or less , this is a safety device and the quicker it trips the safer your gripper arms ! I deally set tighter still but you have to be sure there is sufficient slack and 1/4 of the travel is a good base point to work with here . all the hoses are probably rock hard and i bet not even rubber at all but replacement hose from the hardware store ,You should fid black rubber wire lined hose check around car spares suppliers its not cheap but it works if you locate the lenght that means no hose gets too tight a bend in it and does not collapse under vacuum . it may appear strong and solid but it will soon start warming and softening in use and any tight bend in an ordinary hose will collapse flat .
Once you have the hoses sorted get a seal on the suckers and start the old gil up ,try to set the trip adjust screw and see if openg one tap causes it to trip , once she trips set up a pile of stock ,open the feedbar taps up to run a normal job and try to run them through till holding a sheet back trips the machine off , i am sure you will get the drift ,if this all still shows too much wear i would run a weld through the wear and grind it back as i said earlier .

Oh yes , i shall put this if not relevent to you then someone else , Turning the autostop screw in causes the trip to be more sensitive and un doing said screw causes it to be less sensitive you alter this in conjunction with your tilt due to up tilt on the feeder arm allowing a greater degree of vacuum leak than when the feed arm is set horizontally as for feeding some heavier boards .

Just filing the wear out of the lever will mean your clutch will be gripping less and although it doesnt seem much it can cause slip on drive with the tiny movement .

I will give you the step measurement in a while i will go do a bit of familiarising first and a measure up see if i can see anything i missed , i am ok with these machines but my brain is so small !!!