Windmill register spindle - binding


As previously mentioned, we are trying to revive a circa 1959 windmill (10x15).

First chore: getting reliable, smooth action on the register spindle for the lower & side gauges.

The spindle occasionally moves freely, but more often binds when advancing and retracting, moved manually or by linkage (hand-turning the flywheel).

It seems that the spindle was sticking when engaged (prior to our acquisition), there is a chunk missing where the cam lever was struck by the gripper driveshaft - the driveshaft has a gouge where the parts made contact.

Some yellowish discoloration akin to surface rust was visible on the spindle near the cam lever, so it is presumed there was binding (and now possibly a bend).

The bracket & related bits on the drive-side appear in good order, I tried to loosen the bracket, to no avail. The bolts come free, but the bracket refuses to budge, even with a few sharp raps to break any paint bonds.

A generous amount of lubrication and repeated manual actuation seems to be helping, but it would be great if there is a quicker process… A few hundred manual cycles have polished the knurled knob nicely, but not made the spindle 100% reliably free.

I’m wondering if it’s feasible to flow some lapping compound into the bushing via a light oil carrier, or some other means of reducing the binding, short of replacement.

Suggestions are appreciated, with thanks in advance.


image: RegisterCamSm.JPG


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Dont even try it ,you will likely not get the stuff out of the lubricatin channels and it will leach into the lowetr main shaft which runs through the lower portion of the platen and inevitably wreck the machine .The bracket will be fine and by the way i think it has parrallel pins in it so onc ee the bolts are out you have to lever it out carefully ,
If the right most component as you describe has hit the gripper drive shaft something odd has occurred that without looking at it physically i cant comment on but you probably have a bend in the main shaft that goes horizontally throught the platen body as is obvious to note , however within the body of the platen there is a long bronze bush and should the lay drive shaft be even slightly bent you will probably need to replace it , should you be unablre to source one i have a spare in the uk ,but remember the removal will be mostly drilling as the parts are not very substantial and a hammer and pin drift do a lot of damage if the greatest of care is not taken .
If you are very lucky you may be able to gently tap the end You Should be able to slide the drive shaft left to right easily if you cant then the shaft is bent, you should also be able to raise and lower the side lay (the little bit that is to the right of the platen that the sheet is driven to .) with ease ,it this is tight then that may be just in need of a little attention (remove and wipe round with fine weyt and dry of the pin will suffice . All this assembly should be on page 31 of your manual , if i was not in a hurry I would detail this better .
Check find the part that is not free ,if its the horizontal then the spring must be able to pull the bar back to the left ,if it cant you need replace that part .

Thanks Peter,

Yes, the horizontal spindle will not consistently return on its own.

The intermittent nature of the binding gave me hope it could be loosened in-situ.

I will see if I can source a replacement stateside, but this may be the tip of the iceberg and the machine may become a parts donor.

Well, when you haven’t got much to lose, you get out the 4lb dead-blow hammer…

Just kidding.

I loosened up the bolts on the feed side bracket, and armed with the above advice I used a wood-chisel to lever and wedge the bracket away from the platen… a few taps this way and that, until the spindle moved very freely.

Then filled the .016” gap with handy shim material for a test with the bolts nipped up tightly.

All good in my book, on to the next hill.

Thanks to all,

image: shim2sm.jpg


If shimming works then shim it , because of the bar maybe bent then logic dictates the bush it passes through is probably compromised too so if they work with shim beneath the left guide then so be it ,cheaper than replacement and fine so long as its free .