Chandler & Price 12x18
We’ve just brought home our first Chandler & Price and have some questions:
1. We have the 3 ink rollers, but we only have the ‘attachments’ / locks (‘yokes’) to insert the 2 ‘side by side’ ink rollers. Is it advisable to try rolling ink with only 2 ink rollers or should we wait to roll ink until we’ve found/bought ‘attachments’ to attach the 3rd ‘independent’ roller to the press?
2. Any suggestions how/where to find the ‘attachments’ so we can mount our 3rd ink roller to the press?
3. Any suggestions on where to find “safety covers” for large Gear ‘Cog’ Wheel?
4. Should we only print with Metal Type on this press? (i.e. can wood type be “shattered” by the pressure of the press on this type of printer?)
5. How much ink should we put on the ink plate (i.e. a small spatula’s worth?)? And Where do we put the ink on the plate (i.e. one ‘spatula full’ in the center or in a “line” across the plate?, etc.)
Many Thanks for your Help.
I’m still a rookie but I have good results using only 2 rollers on my CP 8x12.
It is VERY easy to put too much ink on the ink plate. You can always add more. I place very small amounts several places on the plate. From my experience a bullion cube of ink would be to much.
You should speak to Steve Robinson of Letterpreservation. I’m pretty sure he has brand new roller yokes for sale for your press.
Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY
1) 2 rollers work, but 3 rollers work 50% better. It’s all about even ink distribution across the form.
2) Where are you located? Equipment dealers (John Barrett at letterpressthings.com, Dave Churchman, etc.) may have parts lying around. There is allegedly a dealer in the Southwest with several acres of printing equipment in the desert, selling parts as needed. You might also post a photo - I’m a tad fuzzy on exactly the extent of what is missing.
3) Sounds like you have an “old style” C&P, made before 1908 - it has “S” shaped spokes on the flywheel, right? The “new style” (straight spokes) has the integral gear cover. If you need to, you could fabricate one, though attachment might be tricky.
4) Wood or metal - makes no difference - you can smash either, and neither is good for the press. You need to take a course in platen press work, specifically make-ready, providing it is set up correctly, adjusting the packing on the bed will keep from smashing type. You can lock up the press by smashing type - and possibly break a casting. In extreme cases, there are also large adjustment bolts under the bed - which you do NOT want to touch unless you know what you’re doing. These are typically for adjusting the press for die-cutting.
5) Not a lot - a little ink goes a long way - a couple of dabs of ink will distribute very evenly after running a few minutes.
This is a large and potentially dangerous press - but completely safe in the right hands. Operating this beast really requires some instruction, and helpful hints from an operator.
Good luck!
We added ink at about 7-8 o’clock near the ink disc’s left edge. This gave the maximum opportunity for distribution before the new ink hit the form. We used a 1” ink knife, little difference than a 1” putty knife. The ink is gathered by holding the knife nearly vertically starting at the outer edge of the can and working in circles to the center. This keeps the ink surface level and easy to cover with the original paper or a newly made one from tympan. Dick
If you hear the ink “sizzle” you have too much on.