Our art center has an old style Gordon press that has not been very well maintained and I would like to take a shot at getting it back to life. A few questions, not necessarily in order of importance.
1. The throw lever is marked 1840. I doubt that’s the date but what else could it mean? BTW, curved spoke wheel but they may all be that way.
2. The leveling nuts are frozen and penetrating oil does not work. Any suggestions?
3. Would Ramco or NA have trucks and rollers available for such a press?
4. Any markings, and where, as to date? On the wheel is Pat Appl’d F”.
Anything else, as usual, greatly appreciated. Neil
Log in to reply 10 replies so far
“The throw lever is marked 1840…”
Could be a casting #.
“The leveling nuts are frozen…”
(moderate) Heat? I realize heat makes things expand…but worth a try. That may or may not be a good idea…because things can be caused to break like that…
Roller and trucks may be available depending on what size the press is.
Just trying to get the discussion going. Somebody correct me.
Thanks David. Neil
Try liquid wrench in comes in a can, you can get it at your local hardware store. You may not need to raise or lower the platen. What size Gordon is it? Yes you can get rollers & trucks made for your press. There are several roller companies listed on here in the yellow pages. Do you have a chase for the press?
Liquid Wrench is almost as effective as TRI-FLO,
& last I looked, less expensive.
Blaster does a good job and but the stuff gives some folks a headache and seems to soften some kinds of paint.
My two favorite penetrating oils are
KROIL and PINK SLIPPER.
They far out perform anything else I’ve found.
KROIL comes in an orange can and ain’t cheap.
It’s a hardware store item and you can sometimes find it
at an auto supply. It regularly does the job for me
when even Tri-Flo has failed.
PINK SLIPPER is a 50/50 mix of Acetone & ATF (automatic transmission fluid).
It performs about as well as KROIL.
Be sure to tap all around the rust-welded part with a small hammer while the oil is seeping in.
Heat works best if strongly applied to the nut (while tapping it) and less to the bolt. Use the needle point attachment on your propane torch or get a smaller butane style torch. Butane doesn’t deliver the volume of BTUs like propane but the smaller head is easier to focus away from the bolt. Apply your torque immediately & long before the nut cools.
Penetrating oil will usually do a better job after a frozen part has been heated and cooled.
Always grease up your threads before reassembly.
A leaky roof or a spilled soda can put you back where you started.
I neglected to mention that PINK SLIPPER
is not available over-the-counter.
You make it yourself.
One more thing on the frozen nuts:
Increase your leverage. If you are using a socket, slip a decent length of pipe over the ratchet handle. If you’re using an open end wrench, there is a usually a way that you can slip a pipe over one of wrench prongs on the other end. That can be kinda wonky but it should work.
Once the nut is broken free it will of course be a lot easier.
Hopefully you’ve been able to get the adjusting screws moving. If not, make certain you use a wrench which fits the nuts well, otherwise it is easy to round off the nuts and make them much more difficult to move.
bigboy, one thing about the frozen nuts, you are trying to loosen the locking nuts first???
Good point dick, is there a center nut on the platen? Because you have to loosen that one first, then the lock nuts. I am fairly sure you turn the locking nuts counter clockwise (you do on a kluge).
Got it all and understand about the locking and frozen nuts. Thanks and will report back once we get started. Neil