Shining up old metal
Hi, this isn’t life or death but I’d really love to figure this out. I’m currently restoring a vandercook proof press. It was in good shape when i got it but was really gunked up with dirt, grease and a bit of rust. I took it apart, cleaned it up then soaked it in the vinegar/lemon solution for 24 hours.
The vinegar/lemon works great. The press is super smooth and clean now. However, it doesn’t look it… it’s still fairly brown and dirty looking and I’d love to figure out how to get it looking brand new. I don’t want to do anything drastic like use an electric sander or anything because there’s the potential to distort the surface of the press.
Any suggestions?
Below is a pic of what it looks like now. All clean but still scuzzy looking. I really would love to get it looking as good as Harry did with his restore (http://www.mintees.com/talk/200033-so-i-restored-a-vandercook-proof-pres...).
Any help is always appreciated!
postCleaning
polish and polisher…lint cloth one or try a foam one to test……
keroscene and fine steel wool will eventually clean it up.
kersene eh? that’s interesting…
yea sure kerosene
but then
any sort of oil or auto transmission juice will do
yea
found auto transmission fluid is great for
cleaning things up
also grown fond of
3M scrub pads
yours truly
mac
dit dit dit
da dit da
Don’t use transmission fluid. It’s rather corrosive, and will hurt your hands. Locate some machinist’s grinding oil, wrap some 600 grit sandpaper around a flat block and lightly sand, regularly wiping up the dirty oil, and replacing it with new. Follow up with 1000 grit sandpaper using the same process. Nothing works as well as grinding oil to remove rust and tarnish.
Paul
D T P Is 100% correct about transmission fluid, *(see footnote) what is/was done here to obtain nice flat shiny surface was to acquire, beg borrow steal or if all else fails, buy! small amount of rubbing compound, as used on cars thin about 10-20% till it pours like salad dressing, and then go to town with the elbow grease and a flat block. Our product would be “Farecla” and similar. Your motor factors or body shops will surely have equivalents. Ours are gently abrasive and are possibly ammonia based, which also seems to have a detergent effect, 2 birds with 1 stone. This works well for mild lapping,.i e flat surface to flat surface, the principle holds good even if only one surface is involved. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *Footenote As Lonnie Donegan once sang about “when he was digging my potatoes and trampling on my vine” a little drop of transmission fluid or brake fluid, on the trunk or the hood, as you would say, usually conveyed the message, (so it seemed) now the “modus operandi” would appear to be get your buddy to gently tip 1/2 a cubic metre of ready mix concrete into his rag top pride and joy, or get another buddy to drop the bucket of his mechanical digger onto afore mentioned motor, Frequently in our national press.
Thanks all. I actually tried the kerosene and fine steel wool and it worked amazing. Definitely a corrosive product but i used gloves and wiped it down after with simplegreen to make sure the harmful (and flammable) material was all off.
quick pic below of result.
31_cleaned_rail.JPG
As soon as the Kerosene evaporated, you were out of flame’s way. I promise.
Also make sure to oil it now :-)
A light coat of detergentless oil will do the trick. I like “Bar Chain and sprocket” oil.