Golding Pearl #11 information

trbloco2420, per chance have you googled the subject.
best james

No need to google, I’m sure the information is right here on Briarpress, with a quick look around the search-function ;)

I have done both, but maybe I need to change the way I word the search terms.

TRB, If you can go back a few weeks and call up previous posts regarding, reverting to treadle operated, from power you will see some amazing gobbledegook about treadle devices, (some could well be attributed to Gene Roddenberry) most were at best impracticable, at worst ridiculous, I did input my 10 cents worth, but I think the original postee, probably had a nervous breakdown and gave up, however I have just acquired a floor standing platen, fitted with treadle, which I have removed to utilise the motor, with clutch, from an industrial sewing machine,!!! Therefore the treadle will be sold to finance other parts, (obviously not practical to ship out) but the treadle is so stupidly simple, as to be a joke, after all the high faluting posts here-in:> I describe the treadle thus:- the foot pedal swings from a shaft at the bottom rear of the machine, 2 parallel arms terminating with whatever you want to tread down on, ordinary cycle cog, located between the 2 arms, with the 2 little free wheel dogs, removed (so that it turns backwards or forwards) attatched to an ordinary chain, of your convenient length, going over an eccentric pulley, on a mainshaft across the machine, you spin the fly wheel towards you (as with any flywheel machine for safety, i.e. to thrown your bits, beards, boobs, fingers etc out of the way!!!) and crank away at to your hearts delight, before I removed it POSSIBLY with this kind of post in mind, I played for fun and facination??? The only drawback to reproducing this down home, would be making or acquiring the pulley, which construction wise, was/is about as big as a small tea saucer, with the eccentric lobe about 2 1/2 inches off centre with a channel about 1/4 of an inch deep, to keep the chain running on, with only about 3 moving parts it turns the machine over like a clock running, and even with a 60% forme in, on impression, coupled with the weight of the flywheel, it hardly seemed to require enough foot pressure, to crush an egg, One problem might have been stopping in a hurry>>>no fly wheel brake, and YES I did play with it in fascination, at the simplicity!! before I stated my conversion to power.>>>> Good Luck, Mick

Note though that the treadle for a Pearl #11 is extremely different from a C&P-style treadle described by Mick. It attaches to the press in the middle and the link to the crankshaft pushes the shaft rather than pulling on it as the C&P and most other treadle presses do. A treadle sewing machine operates the same way as the Pearl. But a treadle for a Pearl can be fabricated easily enough — you just need to know how it works and measure carefully.

Bob

Thanks, Mick.

Bob: I emailed you about dimensions if you can get them to me. I have no reference that I could find online, so will have to rely on the kindness of Pearl #11 treadle owners to do the measuring for me. And if you have an extra cam ( I think that is what it is called), I could use that as well.

I sent trbloco a photo of my treadle and rod, and a sketch based on the measurements of my treadle and rod, for a treadle welded up out of steel angle and other materials, which I believe would work as well as the original and be stronger. The sketch is below. Others who need a treadle can email me and I will send the photo and a larger version of the drawing.

Bob
#11 Pearl sn 1723

Pearl 11 treadle & rod sketch.jpg

Sorry — I forgot the limitation on file names!

Bob

Pearl 11 treadle sketch.jpg

Thanks, Bob!!

Thanks Bob…I have the same press and also having issues finding a treadle… this might work if I jerry rig something together.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/jaspers_pix/px2fgq

A friend and I attempted to make one out of wood. Some of these pix show our “proof of concept” prototype. However we were able to have one cast using a borrowed one as a model for the mold. It works fine with some adaptation and a steel rod and knuckle ends from Grainger.
The pix may be useful.
Steve V

I recently scanned my copy of the original Golding & Co. serial number log book and uploaded it to the Internet Archive. It lists most of the serial numbers for Golding Pearls, Officials, and Jobbers. You can find it here:

https://archive.org/details/GoldingFactoryLogBook

The specific date for Pearl 11 with s/n 1723 isn’t given, but it was completed between Feb.1914 and May 1916. Probably 1915, I’d say.
-Steve

The oil holes are fairly obvious. I’ve been meaning to diagram, but have not done so yet.

See pics of home made treadle associated with “Part for a Golding Improved Pearl 8” post in discussion. It “pulls” the crank down, instead of pushing it up as, I believer the original metal treadle did.

As Inkspot specified in the referenced post, “You can obtain the required L/H shoulder bolt from McMaster- Carr Part number 90324A152. approx $7.00” I think I ordered 2 and they gave me a bulk discount :-). Fast, too.

I imagine it is the same for the 11, but not sure. Note that my Pearl 8 sits on a half inch (or so) piece of plywood. there is a hinge on the underside of my treadle connected to the board, and pulls the crank down when I push down on the treadle. You see the treadle is off to the right of the printer, It seems to me having it between the legs would be awkward, though it seems to have worked that way for a hundred years or so. Cheers

GP8-2.jpg