Putting Together a Dismantled Board Shear

Hoping someone here can help.
I am in need of a board shear, and I found one for a really great price. But the catch is, it’s completely taken apart. I have heard the blade needs to be balanced properly.
With no previous experience, is it possible to put one of these back together and have it operating correctly? Or would it take a little know-how?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

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Is that a yes?
Have you put one back together before and balanced the blade?

i have put several together over the years for friends. We just talked.

Crude and Humble response , to Your quest based only on efforts with previously dismantled Board Shears/Guillotines, (inherited as freebies usually) with NO instructions or schematics.
Hopefully it should be reasonably evident how the *Bed*.sits in the main frame, 2 maybe more, bolts from underneath, (possibly with tapered factory fitted Dowels) usually position the *bed* so that the cutting stick is exactly central to catch the stroke of the blade, which usually, if late enough can be turned 4 times, to give 8 offset faces to catch the blade, i.e. turned 4 times and flipped (Possibly) 4 times as well, originally the *sticks* were hardwood but nowadays plastic can be sourced from graphic suppliers.!
The blade carrier, normally operates through the side frame in 2 slots, which direction can usually be ascertained by the position and direction of the stroke of the operating mechanism and the drive motor.
The blade carrier usually operates in a slicing manner, and is carried in and by 2 ground and hardened steel pegs within the side frames, giving close precision descent to the carrier.

The descent of the blade carrier is and has to be very precise and very adjustable, of course to bring the blade down to contact the *stick* usually a double ended threaded, clock and anti clock adjuster with locknuts, should be reasonably clear for positioning.

The blade should be carried/transported, with at the very least bolted to a timber carrier WITH protected plastic shield over the blade as well.!! there should also be at least 2 knurled studs/bolts, with the same thread as the blade carrier, to enable the blade to be fitted as the last operation, with 2 hands and safety PARAMOUNT.

The blade may have more than one set of holes, which have been re-threaded to compensate re-sharpening of the blade previously, only the last and top set of holes can be utilized, normally to contact the blade adjustment descent and abutment bolts.

Usually here U.K. as with the big boys and their programmatic m/c.s., we set the blades to just kiss the stock and treat the bottom sheet as sacrificial, unless the stock (complete ream for example is critical) even a dummy sheet at bottom, per cut.?? Newsprint is good.!

Seen fairly often with smaller cutters the *bed* is free standing in the main frame and requires NO remote rear leg or stanchion, occasionally is seen the need for a remote third leg, which hopefully is reasonably obvious.

Usually the back stop guide/gauge is slotted into the *bed* and operated by the worm and thread nut (underneath)and handwheel at front centre, should be reasonably obvious where and how , hopefully.
In some cases their is a steel tape (calibrated in inches originally) mounted and carried by a post, atop the back stop, which is usually read through a small sight glass above the main frame, to give an accurate read out, of the position of the back stop, per cut., (tape) normally adjusted & zero-ed with a small threaded section on the tape and acting against a small spring on the non used section of the tape (dead side)

As with virtually all cutters,the stock is (knocked up) tapped/slid against the pre-set back stop and positioned against the side stanchion that accepts the stroke and descent of the blade..
Occassionaly a minute burst from a silicone spray, a tiny spot of talcum powder, OR *intergram* anti set of spray, on the bed, helps to position the stock. ”

” Replicates the Big Boys equipped with float beds on their programatic m/c,s.

Apologies for the extended ramble, offered in good faith and might help. Mick

Mick’s reply was certainly complete, but related to a paper cutter and not a board shear.

I think you will find the re-assembly of the board shear quite easy, although some of the pieces would be heavy and need extra hands for support. If you can find a good photo(s) of and assembled one, the process should be quite easy if you can wield a wrench and screwdriver.

The only “fiddly” part is the setting of the moveable shear blade to the fixed shear edge, but just start with clearance there, and bring it in slowly.

John Henry

J. Henry My apologies to Your Good self and the original Postee, Yes I, as we say *Jumped the Gun* and assumed incorrectly that a Board Shear was the U. K.. equivalent of a paper cutter or guillotine.

I will stand in the corner with the *D* dunces cap on, and try harder next time, again apologies

Wow Mick,
Great info on the paper cutter, much appreciated. And a great read by the way. I wish it was a paper cutter I was in need of, as they are much easier and cheaper to come by.

J Henry,
Thank you.
I talked to Typenut, and he said the same thing you did, and also offered his support. Good to hear reassurance.

I went ahead and told the seller - “Sold!”
Just waiting for him to pallet and ship it.

Thanks everyone.

Ok nevermind, he just sent me some pictures and I think I’m going to pass. It looks pretty rough and it’s missing some things.
Oh well, at least I know I can buy a dismantled one now.