Miehle V-50 Brakepad

Hi All,

Was wondering if anyone has ever changed the brakepad on a V-50, or i suppose any Vertical. Mine seems to be worn down quite a bit. The leather is about 1/8” to 1/4” thick, but I can see wear on the posts (cant think of a better term) that hold the leather onto the brake. I’m thinking I need to double the thickness, but didn’t know if I should find a single thick piece of leather, or if I could double up with two thinner layers.

If anyone knows the original specs of that leather, or has any experience replacing it, I’m all ears to input.


Log in to reply   10 replies so far

Cory, the “posts” you are referring to are rivets. There is an adjustment which may help. The shaft that the brake shoe and pad sit non is adjustable. There is a square head set screw that lock the shaft into place, I use a 3/8 drive extension from a socket wrench set.. putting several extensions together so that it is 12 to 14” long and using an 3/8” open end wrench on the male end you can reach under the press and loosen the square headed bolt to break it loose and then using your small pin wrench putting it through the hole in the end of the shaft to adjust it as it is on an eccentric. If the pad is really wore out to the point where you can’t get any more out of it by working the eccentric, let me know and I will send you a useable one, have fun, Bud


Was hoping you’d see this, and figured you would have an answer. Let me get a good photo of the pad, before I make any adjustments. I feel that since I’m grinding into the rivets it may be time for replacement, but you’ll know better than I if the pad looks worn out or not.


Tiny input from the U.K. from along time ago:-
If as You imply You are down to the rivets, the most favourable option should be, the Generous offer above, unless distance and shipping are a problem, coupled with the fitting and adjustment(s) seems a good prospect. !!
Here U.K. way back (but unfortunately now a thing of the past) we were able to seek the services of an accredited, *Meihle Goss Dexter* Agent. When necessary we just phoned in, requested a replacement (re-lined) brake shoe on the understanding that the existing Shoe be returned for servicing.
That service (along with all other V.M. services) expired but with a little help and advice from our Auto/Car brake shoe relining agents, began re-lining or own V.M. shoes.

Usually acquired traditional leather either from Bona Fide Cobblers or Saddlery/Equestrian sources.

Coupled with the acquisition of (A) Star-wheel, style multi hole punch and (B) simple hand held brake shoe riveting tool, and most important (C) *COPPER* Rivets.

Even with Copper Rivets they were (and still are) rebated/recessed 50% into 1/4” or 3/8” leather.

Thanks for that info Mick! I agree that replacing seems most logical, and then making the adjustments with a fresher pad.

I’ve attached a couple photos of the pad, and the exposed rivets. I’ve also attached a photo of the square headed bolt that I believe you’re (Bud) is referring to, if you can confirm. I see the hole for the pin wrench to make adjustments.


image: squarehead.jpg


image: padthickness.jpg


image: padface.jpg


Those rivets look to be a softer metal. Probably brass or copper. Use it until you find a fix. They don’t look like they are grooving the flywheel. In a new pad they would be recessed into the pad.

3 Cheers, Thank You, but please in no way wishing to *Steal You country-mans Thunder* just passing on info and learning, gleaned from a long time ago.

One possibly helpful + we are literally on the point of dismantling (parting out I think is your expression Stateside) a V.M. and could if requested (with a little help) transmit shots/pictures of any relevant parts.

If and when refitting replacement, perhaps check and
ascertain if, the square headed pinch bolt carries a chisel point to register with a concave depression or a *flat* on the shaft. ?
I offer this scenario, just from past situations, where Taper Pins locate fittings in a fixed/timed position, as opposed to fittings that need to be re-positioned on an infrequent basis.

Good luck. Mick.

Eric- they seem to be brass, and I’ve been running as is without any noticeable grooving on the flywheel. The reason I put in this inquiry was because I’ve noticed when the the Press is stopped, either by my hand, or by the auto kickoff, the press carries quite a bit of momentum, sometimes a full cycle.

Mick- thanks for the heads up about the bolt end/shaft. I should be able to check that out easily. There are a couple other square head bolts on the whole belt/pulley assembly that are adjustment bolts, which leads me to believe this is no different, but an investigation tomorrow shall let me know for sure! Luckily, that shaft, at first glance, doesn’t appear to connect to any other sort of timing, but just makes connections between the brake, pulley lever, and the auto kickoff arm.

Thanks all!

Cory, the rivets I have come across have been copper and won’t hurt or grove the fly wheel. The nut you pointed out is the one I was in reference to. The shaft is an eccentric and when turning it you can go past “center” and at that point you will loose “throw” into the fly wheel. I have in the past replaced the pad with a piece of 1/4 leather from “Tandy” but have also just swapped them with a better shoe form a donor press. I’m in the middle of moving my shop…I will look for another brake for you soon, but go ahead and try the adjustment. a tip for you…center punch a reference mark at the top on the flat end of that eccentric shaft so that you will know where you have been. Bud

Thanks Bud, I’ll give that adjustment a try today.


the press may “Coast” more once the rivets are contacting. it needs to be fixed for sure.