Golding no. 1 issues

Hi everyone! I’ve just acquired my first press, a Golding no. 1, and even before taking my first print on it, I’ve noticed some issues.

1. One of the roller hooks start to float about halfway across the bed. I’ve oiled the roller hook guides but they still seem to get stuck.

2. The bigger issue is that the flywheel sometimes won’t turn in tandem with the treadle, causing a somewhat frightening shudder. There is a bolt that seems like it is supposed to hold to the flywheel to the pinion shaft, but it is only holding the two together with tension, i.e. there isn’t a hole in the pinion shaft that I can find, but it seems like there should be one because of the remaining thread & length on the bolt.
With careful treading, it isn’t a problem, but the crank has a weld and I worry about the day I slip up hard enough to break it.

I’m interested in parts, particularly the pinion shaft, crank, as well as appropriate bolts, if anyone has any to offer.

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The roller hook may have a slight bend which resists returning. You could take it out and try to straighten it, or put in s stronger spring.

You could mark the position of the bolt on the shaft and file a small flat area on the shaft to keep it (the shaft) from rotating when the bolt is properly tightened. If there is a counterweight on the flywheel, it should be timed to be on a downward path as the press goes on impression. I had to do this on my Kelsey Union press, and will agree the slippage is a bit scary (and on mine, noisy). Add a locknut to the bolt if it doesn’t already have one. That will keep the bolt from loosening up.

John Henry
Cedar Creek Press

If you could include pics of the offending hook/ and the flywheel bolt area, it may add info that would assist us in guiding you more accurately. Some Golding Pearl models have a key in addition to the bolt. Some have two bolts. Some just one. Originals bolts would be square headed. Golding didn’t ever have a flat or round recess for the bolt to go into on the flywheel to shaft connection, or a locknut. It doesn’t mean it might not be necessary at this point though. When I am restoring I first try to make it as close to original as possible. You can bet it worked correctly when it was new as designed. As mentioned by John, if the flywheel is at all loose, it will clunk and act very badly. It needs to be really secure. If the roller spring is original and still the correct length, definitely remove the hook and try straightening. Keep trying it in the roller arm until it moves in and out smoothly before even adding the spring.

John F

Thank you both for your help

I’ve just ordered new springs from McMaster that I hope will solve any lingering issues with roller floating - although I’ve ordered a stronger (1 lb) and a weaker spring(.5 lb) in case the stronger spring causes issues or threatens the integrity of the press.

Since putting the rollers on, I’ve also had trouble with the trucks dragging, all four, when they’re going across the middle of the bed, and I was wondering if either of you had advice for that issue. I haven’t taped the rails yet and I think that might help, as well as the spring replacement. Part of the issue may be that the trucks aren’t keyed to the rollers, like I’m used to with the C&P.

The flywheel bolt appears to be original- or I might suspect it was perhaps taken from elsewhere on the press and used to secure the flywheel. There’s a fair amount of frankensteining - which doesn’t bother me as I’m not so much into the collecting side of things. I’m more interested in taking the press out of retirement.

again, thank you both for your help!


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Based on the pictures, I offer the following. Bolt looks original. If it will not hold the flywheel securely to the shaft to your liking, make the flat or dimple in the shaft as suggested. It can be anywhere on the shaft on this press as there is no timing on involved. Your pic of the roller arm indicates you have a very early example. The springs also look original, or were replaced with appropriate replacements along the way. I personally would not be so quick to replace them. I have never found an exact replacement available even from McMaster Carr. If you haven’t done what has been mentioned, I would definitely suggest you try it before replacement. Unscrew the round nut, remove the current springs and push and pull the hook through it’s entire travel to make sure it does not bind. In the photo it appears the lower hook is bent. Good luck. John

Forgot to mention, your hooks are upside down for this model. Hooks may also be closed too much and causing trucks to bind/slide. Spread them if too tight on trucks. This model did not have keyed shafts/trucks and the press works great when everything is sorted. Of course oil in the appropriate spots is a must.


Thank you John - I think I’ve found the sweet spot for the flywheel bolt - I’ll just remember to tighten it often.

I tried the McMaster springs but found that they were too much, and exacerbated the flywheel bolt problem because the extra strain while treading.

Taping the rails helped with the trucks dragging, although I am still having the floating arm problem, but to a lesser degree. it’s not the lower arm that is floating, but the upper one. I might try to shim the spring a bit with a washer or other spacer to give it slightly more power.
I’ll report back once I’ve tried that. I’ll also try reorienting the arms before I try shimming.

Thank you for the tip on the arm orientation - I wasn’t sure. In the same realm, does the treadle hook hook coming from behind the crank, or facing towards it? Also - I’ve read somewhere that this press was designed to be run with the flywheel going away from the operator, although I think it makes a gear grinding noise when I do that.

Thank you so much for your help!



Treadle hook away from you. (Open side away, although it does not change anything mechanically). Hook orientation does put the rollers in a different position. They go down farther past the forme, and up onto the ink disk less as they should. Springs can be strengthened some by carefully stretching them a bit so they are slightly longer than before the stretch. Try moving the hooks to different positions on the press as well. See if the problem moves. Upper to lower, left to right, etc. Press has a dwell engineered in that only works correctly when you push the top of the flywheel away to start. It opens the press quickly, leaves it open a fraction longer, and shuts it slowly. If you run the press backwards, it reverses that sequence. Keep in mind, this is subtle. Not a huge difference. Many presses make more noise run in one direction over the other. This is because of wear on the gears over the decades. Good luck.


Second sentence refers to roller hooks orientation, not treadle hook. This also effects how much the roller hook spring is compressed.