Miehle V36 Die Cut Jacket?
Folks,
I’m setting up a Miehle V36 for die cutting. I have many replacement top draw sheets to give the impression cylinder a good surface when printing, but as I have never die cut before I’m not sure what is normal procedure.
I’m pretty sure that if I die cut a larger quantity with manila packing on the cylinder, it’s just going to chew through the stuff real fast. I’ve heard that on these types of press, sometimes a steel jacket is placed in lieu of paper packing, for the die to press against. Any thoughts? This won’t dull down the edge of the die too quickly?
Thanks!
-Matt
matt,
you will need a steel jacket for die cutting, you can get them from Bar-plate. they offer two different thicknesses (sorry I don’t know them offhand) but spend the extra for the heavier plate. I got the lighter one the last time and it hasn’t held up as well.
As long as you slowly build your packing and don’t over pack it the cutting rule actually holds up well.
PaulM
Matt,
I have some extra used jackets.
I would sell one for $25. plus shipping.
Let me know if you are interested.
Thanks,
Jim
Just so folks know, the total packing of a V-50 is .050”. Bar-Plate makes jackets of .030” and the “boxmaker” .050” thicknesses. If you are properly set up (and not running .937” dies through by accident) the jacket shouldn’t take on nicks, as the ideal cutting pressure will leave a shine at the cut/perf lines and not cut the jacket.
Sometimes just one thickness of Scotch Magic clear tape will fix a weak portion of a cut, but more than that will cause paper fibers to pack into the tape and cause problems later on. The tape comes off with a single-edge razor blade.
A plate/type high gauge of some sort is invaluable for keeping different height dies and cut/perf rule segregates so problems don’t sneak up on you.
Thanks to all of you for the input!
I know I might sound daft for even asking, but I should be ordering my dies type-high (0.9186 inch) for the V36, correct? Like you folks suggest, I’ll grab the heavier .03 jacket, and slowly build up the packing.
Separately, because I’m going to be punching door hangers two-up on 8.5x11 sheets, would you recommend cutting the holes clean of the sheet and having the waste drop away, or should I nick the die in some place so it feeds onto the deliver table with the cut-away hole still barely hanging on?
The first option is desirable for me, so we don’t have to worry about removing the hole before putting the fliers into use. Of course, the problem is that I don’t want to gunk up the components of the machine below with half a million equally sized little circles of paper! Hahaha…
Thanks!
always nick the dies so it doesn’t fly everywhere, i tell my customers it costs extra to poke out the holes, most will do it to save a buck. dick g.
Before nicking your dies try to run some first. I run door hangers on a V50 6-up without nicks and out of a 20,000 sheet run i only lose a couple hundred centers and the hangers are easier to clean out afterward. There is a natural nick where the circle meets at the diagonal cut and depending on die maker that is plenty.
I avoid nicking any dies unless an absolute must because the next customer might not want them and dies can be expensive.
But there are times when nick are needed.
When running your door hangers run the holes close to the grippers if you can, there are alot of things to snag when they are on the tail of the sheet.
PaulM