Crank Shaft Pin
Hello,
I am unfortunately having to move my press again and in the process we are trying to remove the shaft to fit through a really narrow door. We removed the small gear but the pin in stuck and we cannot remove the shaft because of this. Does anyone have any good ideas as to how we can move the pin. Do you think it was welded onto the shaft?
Thanks,
Nancy
I’d try some penetrating oil like liquid wrench, the pin (key) should fit snug in the shaft, it should come out with a little tapping , good luck Dick G.
What kind of press? and a photo would be a big help.
But if this is a C&P, then how’d you get the pinion gear off without removing the key? As far as I recall I’ve never seen a pin in a C&P shaft. A pin would go through the gear and shaft, as opposed to a key which joins gear to shaft by being inserted into a slot cut along both gear and shaft. All of the keys I’ve seen on pinion gears were tapered and the gear won’t come off unless the key comes out first.
Yeah, we pulled really hard and also used a screwdriver for leverage to get it off. It took FOREVER but there was no way to get the key (not pin) out. The key is still stuck to the the shaft. Weird I know but that’s where we stand.
Trying to remove the key in the flywheel is a difficult if not impossible feat.
Instead most people remove the small pinion gear on the other side of the press. This can be accomplished by tapping the gear inward toward the center of the press. This will free up the key allowing you to remove the gear from the main shaft. (second pic shows a small drift being tapped on the pinion gear)
If you have removed the pinion gear from the right (non-flywheel) side of the press. You will find that the main shaft still does not want to come free from the press. Behind the flywheel there should be three bolts securing a casting holding the main shaft to the side of the press. By removing these bolts, you free up the main shaft to be pulled out of the left (flywheel) side of the press. (first pic shows the casting to be un-bolted)
IMG_9527-small.jpg
IMG_9525-small.jpg
So If I understand correctly…you had a straight key and you managed to pull the pinion gear off despite not removing the key first, right? And now you have a bare key stuck in the shaft?
If that’s the case, just hook a slide hammer to the far end of the key and beat away at it. A good soaking with penetrating oil, such as Kroil, may help.
a sharp narrow chisel tapped into the gap here (yellow) should start to raise the key up.
IMG_9525-small.jpg
Only follow ericm’s instructions if you have already removed the pinion gear. Otherwise, you are tightening the the gear onto the shaft.
if i am reading the original piece correctly, i assume that the gear in the pic is the one that is removed. in reality, this key looks to be a tapered, “gib” head key.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#gib-keys/=9zn2vt
i do know however, that a lot of these old presses did have a straight key in them which would allow this pinion gear to be removed with out the key being removed.
there did however used to be a third gear in here. it was bigger than the pinion and ran as an idler gear to run the auto feeding system. it was not mounted on the drive shaft, however.
i would like to know,,,, why in this pic does there look like a flywheel on this shaft? what tool/part is this pic taken through? i see spokes and a hub.
That view could be through a right-side drive pulley.
This is taken through the right side drive wheel. I was pulling the main shaft so that I could access the castings behind my solid Craftsman flywheel.
I have a very similar problem on a Golding Jobber #7. The shaft ends at the same length with the gear and key which is making things more difficult. I tried tapping the gear but i might be making it tighter. Should i tap the gear, the key or the shaft?
Has anyone done this on a Golding Jobber or Pearl?
PS: hope you don’t feel disgusted with the over-greased gear!
leo
a2.JPG
a1.JPG
You need to determine if it is a straight key or a taper key (less likely since there is no gib head, but you never know what somebody has done before). Remove the grease, use a dental mirror, or probe back there to see if the key is the same thickness behind the gear as it is at the outside. If the same, use a gear puller. If tapered, drive the gear back, though there doesn’t seen to be much room. Can the shaft be driven back or forward?
I think the Key was at some pt welded to the shaft. We had to go another route but after 2 very very long days the press was moved successfully. I learn something new each time we do this.
now THAT’s part of the fun. ev one think its just running the thing….
Thanks Parallel_imp, I will try the gear puller. Didnt know something like that existed, but i googled it and found some. The shaft doesnt move and i thought there was a little room at the back of the gear, but there might be another section of the gear to fill that space in between.
I will report back after i try your suggestions.
leo
Still no luck with the gear. Please help!
tried the gear puller. also tried heating the gear with a small torch gun.
I think the key is similar to the pin that i took out of the flywheel end on the shaft on the other side of the press (photo attached).
DSCN1951.JPG
DSCN1949.JPG
DSCN1948.JPG
are you striking the end of the puller? the proper use of this tool involves screwing the center bolt very tight, as it seems you have, but, a strike with a hammer is often needed to really bring this tool to life.See the yellow arrow. Please if at all possible do not use a general purpose carpentry/claw hammer. these are quite hard and will possibly damage the puller. but, it that’s what you got then so be it. a hammer similar to this is what you want to use:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1288516&kw=hammer...
once hit, it is possible for some “slop” or play in the tool. keep the center bolt centered on the shaft and re-tighten. hit it again. monitor your progress as you should see the gear coming off.
heat would help this but,,, you would need a VERY serious torch set(oxy/acetylene) with a rosebud tip. most don’t have this so don’t worry
gear_puller.jpg
Finally, success!! Thank you Ericm. I tried your suggestion. started with a normal hammer but, as you predicted, it was not strong enough. Then, i tried the large hammer similar to the one in your picture. I had to hit it hard for it to move half a milliliter.
DSCN1954.JPG
DSCN1953.JPG
DSCN1952.JPG
FANTASTIC!!!!! Good for you! sometimes success is NOT in the prettiest dress,,,, isn’t that hammer BEEE-YOU-TEE-FUL??? lol. :)