so far have been only using foundry type
and old cuts
but of late
for a local artist
have been doing a bit of linocut printing
so far they have been short runs of
25 or less
she would like to try some longer runs
anybody have any crude figures
as to how many impressions i could get
before the linoleum starts to break down
also how heavy can you pack
before you start breaking down the linoleum
lots of solids
so far have had to push a bit to get good
worried might break down artists linocut
am not a deep impression printer
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I’ve printed a fair amount of lino as on a good day that is what I do do. I’ve been using ‘Golden Cut’ which is a little softer than the battleship variety, but have used other varieties. I also go for quite a bit of detail. I print mostly on a flat-bed Vandercook but some on an 8x12 C&P NS. I find you can pretty much keep on goin’ with the stuff —- no breakdown. With large surfaces I sometimes have to double ink or/and double print. I don’t go for impression either. I find textured paper a bit of a pain, though……db
I got into letterpress to print my linocuts. I use considerable pressure to print these compared with type. My goal is not deep impression, but ink coverage. I have not had any trouble with linoleum breaking down from over printing. The most harmful thing for lino is time and solvents. Both of these seem to harden the lino, and make it less likely to receive ink. Like David, I sometimes double ink and double print to get full coverage. For runs of less than 25, I often hand ink. It means more physical work, but yields more consistant results.
I use a C&P Craftsman 10x15 for printing. I looked for the heavier built press because I knew I would be wanting to print large solids, and large detailed blocks. For cuts larger than 8x10, I use an etching press since I have not yet obtained a Vandercook.
The linocuts I produced 12 years ago still hold up printing on my Vandercook. I agree Golden Cut is much easier to cut than Battleship gray. I buy both by the roll and mount to Particle board, however, MDF maybe a sturdier board with less warp when mounting large linoleum.
We print Linocut cards on a new style C&P. I have got up near 500 from some linos without apparent wear. It is important to not do deep impression on anything really, but I do give lino just a bit more imp. I use 3 forme rollers. I mount onto a flooring material (particle type) board with double sided tape. They print beautifully. Lino and Letterpress just go together! I have a manilla top sheet but softer than usual filler sheets.
Real Linoleum is very nearly indestructible. There are places that have Linoleum textured wall coverings (Lincrusta; introduced in the 1870s and still sold today) that are more than a century old and still as detailed as when they were new. Quality Linoleum flooring can last decades without serious wear. If the blocks are truly Linoleum, I wouldn’t worry about them. Vinyl block may be somewhat less durable but I expect will still last for a very long time with this use.
True Linoleum is by nature a golden tan color (unless dyed or painted), so what has been mentioned above as Golden Cut is likely true Linoleum. The Battleship Gray kind may be either dyed Linoleum or Vinyl. Vinyl is cheaper (as well as a bit lighter) than Linoleum which is why it has overtaken the older material as a floorcovering even though it’s not as durable.
just ordered a 3rd roller for the C&P
have been skip feeding and single sheet