Flywheel Pin - Chandler and Price 8x12 New Style

What you’re looking for is called a ‘key’. You can buy keystock in bulk lengths, or you can buy kits that contain pre-cut keys of all different dimensions. If you were in Canada, I could tell you where to go, but you’re probably not in Canada.

You could order what you need online from McMaster-Carr, but if you’re in a city, there’s going to be countless stores that will carry what you look for. Any kind of industrial supply establishment will have what you need.

As for the size, measure carefully and buy the nearest size that will fit. Sometimes you need to file the key to fit. If you’re breaking a sweat, then you’ve bought a key that is far too big. It looks like you’re looking for a 3/8 x 3x8” key, length to be determined by how long the key seat is.

Edit: One more thing — pick up a single cut (mill file) with a ‘safe’ edge. I have a bunch that are around 5/8” wide, they are indispensable for all sorts of things. It looks like you could use one to clean up the burrs and dings in the shaft and flywheel keyseat that might get in the way of the new key seating properly.

yup

its simply a key
common as dirt in a machine shop

do you know anybody
that works as a machinist
millwright or tool and die maker
they can set you up in about ten minutes

you don’t even need the right size

get a oversize one and take a file to it

Every C&P I’ve examined had a taper key, and the gib head key is normal (and available at McMaster-Carr). The keyway in the shaft is straight, but the matching keyway in the flywheel, or in the pinion gear at the other end of the shaft, is tapered.
A straight key won’t hold a flywheel in place laterally unless there is a setscrew or the like to lock it in. Any such thing on your flywheel?

C P IF none or any of the previous posts are possibly not viable options, make you own from scratch? and take the wear in the flywheel and shaft key-ways into account!!!!Acquire a length of mild steel bar (because that is generally what it is, i.e, so that the key wears and not the shaft or the flywheel) at sufficient length to allow for one or two practice pieces, all of say 9 inches and with slightly more than your finished size(s)!!!With just 2 good files and a bench vice with accurately meeting hard steel jaws (NOT soft slippers) First step grip your material in the vice and remove exactly the right amount of material to produce your desired width or thickness!!!the file will automatically skid off the hard jaws and give you a passably accurate finish X 3 e.g. one for the depth and two for the width, and if deemed a requirement incorporate a lug at outer end, with 2/3 degree inward bias for subsequent removal, they always start of at 90 degrees and invariably end up with an adverse bias that the tools slip of when needed. But as the key-ways in the shaft and the flywheel both appear to have outer end wear, before constructing KEY, with the second file, with cut on both faces and both sides, clean the key-ways back to parallel, individually and progressively make your key to a close fit, (even tight??) and as their appears to be no evidence of provision, in the flywheel for, retaining grub screw, drill and tap the flywheel half way along the length of the key and immediately above to anchor the key, even if a tiny taper were already included. Should cost cents rather than dollars, small expertise, bit of satisfaction, no hunting for ready made etc (because some D.I.Y. will still be required) still taking your slightly worn key-ways into account!!!Its not Saturn V rocket science.

Get some good measurements and you will probably find what you need here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-keys/=lemg8m

Look at the ‘tapered machine keys with head’ section!

DGM

I know the old style C&P takes a 3/8 x 3x8 key. Don’t get a coated key stock for it will be a little big, and both parallel_imp and keelan are correct, it is a taped so you will need to file down or have a taper from a machine shop.

I purchase replacement keys for C&Ps at my local hardware store. Get one with the “head” so that you will be able to remove it next time it needs to come out.

If you can’t find a tapered key, it’s easy enough to taper a square key on a stationary belt sander. Takes a while - and it gets hot (so hold it with vise grips). but not a difficult task.

If you run into problems, contact me. I have some in my tool box.

- Alan
http://ExcelsiorPress.org

Thanks everyone. I will try to purchase the size online for now to see if it works.