Tips on removing metal trucks (stuck like glue)

Quite an easy one, for a few $ (dollars) LESS.
If You take a close look at the end of each shaft, You should see a concave recess, (during original machining manufacture) this was originally to mount the steel core(s) for subsequent operations, turning the trucks sections down etc.

But it now lends itself (the concave recess) for the fitting of a Bearing puller, which down a that size is normally in the form of a 2 legged radiused & shaped fingers mounted on a steel backbone, to enable the fingers to be positioned to suit the diameter of the truck and engage with the rear of the truck, and then a Tapered centre bolt locates in the recessed/rebate in the end of the truck,
and when tightened for with-drawl of the truck, maintains alignment during the operation, often helped with 2 pieces of lead or brass, under the fingers to act as grip & sacrificial.

You may just be lucky, before the above, by standing the roller upright, ON a lump of lead, or hardwood, M D F, etc., to act as a cushion, and tap the truck down and off with 2 small brass, copper or hide hammers, but from both sides simultaenously, of course needs 2 pairs of hands, and a small protective tourniquet around the lower part of the compound.!

******
For the *belt and braces* syndrome (and we do & have) in the past >linished< the exposed ends of the steel cores, often with tram lines and burrs. !
The ABOVE always worth the effort, in any case, NEVER Your prying approach. The trucks often wear to a feathered edge and easy to shatter, the edges, hence the sacrificial comment above.

******

Good luck. Mick. U.K.

Are you thinking like the press?
You say you have tried to print with two sets of 44mm trucks and they don’t work. Now you say you want two more sets the same size.

Inky,

I am thinking I can get all four at 44mm and bring the form up to the rollers. Since 44mm is standard today, I thought that’d be best. Other option is to have two sets of trucks sanded down 42.8mm like these old style metal ones. I think either way , my aim is to have four rollers w same size trucks. Doesn’t the press want that?

The diameter of the truck is only relevant with respect to the diameter of the roller. If the truck is too large or small with respect to the roller you will have a whole slew of problems.

Where did you hear that 44mm is “standard”?

Everything should just fall off the end of the core. If it doesn’t, it’s probably glued on with dried ink. Try soaking it in some water based degreaser. Zep Industrial Purple Cleaner & Degreaser Concentrate is my favourite for petrified ink and grease. Make sure to the rubber out of the liquid!

Soaking the bearing in degreaser will also destroy the grease in the bearing, so you must flush any remaining grease out of the bearing, and re-pack it with fresh grease.

Whatever you do, do not damage the bearing, they are a size that is not produced anymore, they are very difficult to find an expensive to replace. Treat them like they’re irreplaceable. Love and nurture your C&P roller bearings.

With everything in reasonable shape, It should never take more than a gentle push to remove the truck and the bearing from the core.

44mm is 1.75 inch a common size for 10x15 presses C&P Craftsman, Kluge. new style used now on old style.
she is going with all 42mm trucks now to match old rollers.

Keelan,

I was told old style trucks aren’t used anymore. Was told the Delrin are what’s more common (which are 44mm). But! Thanks for letting me know the rails are adjustable!

i can get the bearings new. they are $15.00 and include shipping within 48 of USA.