embossing

i use Original Heidelberg Windmill 10x15

? a few more details or questions with some direction ? What are you trying to do?

I want to know how to do this technique

ok. i will get back to you with a video.

I never new the name of the stuff or how to properly use it. We always order counters for embossing but we have it and I would like to use it for setting up.

Thank you ericm

ericm is a very smart person and should get you going.

I have done a few embossing jobs so I am NOT the best guy to offer help. We are looking to expand the number of embossing jobs we do and find the process easy once we got the die part figured out - which is something we are still working on to a certain extent. We get our copper embossing die with counter from Infinity foil for heated embossing on our hot plate and we get photopolymer embossing dies from Crown Flexo for cold embossing on our standard base. We worked with Doris Hill at Infinity to get our die boring setup so we could lock up with with bolts from Monster Bolts rather than bunter posts. It took some time and math but works great and exact placement was much easier and they are almost always straight from the first sheet. The exacting nature of the bored dies from Infinity was amazingly accurate, which I did not think even possible. This was a big help for quick and easy setup. I also worked with Rolly from Crown Flexo to get a photopolymer die sets with counter and alignment pins made which also worked great.

There are smart guys on this blog that should chime in to give you good advice. I have the brains of an earth worm and I only wanted to offer support for the plating options I have found. Good luck, you won’t learn by not trying so jump in and emboss something even if it doesn’t work at first keep trying.

From the UK a question: What please are ‘bunter posts’
and just in passing we had our own ancient system for embossing, involving a strange resin stuff called Gutta Percha. And there was also a patented system called ‘Cutta Crush’ now long forgotten, tho I have once (only) seen the special type used for this.

i know i have some here,,,,, someplace.. they are made for a “Drilled base” See the pic.
https://www.sterlingtoggle.com/pages/bunter-post-system
you would need ev thing onthe page. block, adj screws (2), hold down screw, and wrench. the adjusters are square headed, and i THINK the thread is 10-32, for normal height and, (8-32,6-32) for low height? i ordered some long allen, set screws, from mc master-carr so i could use an allen wrench. high power clamping though is best with Sterling screws.

KlugeDrilledbase.jpg

I know of this stuff, that’s still being sold by Drucken und Lernen in Germany. In order to emboss, you need a die and a counter die. With this paste, you create your own counter die. It’s probably similar to what Harrildplaten mentions in his post. You mix the stuff, apply it to your platen, make an impression, let it set and once set, you can emboss.
http://www.drucken-und-lernen.de/Detailview.92.0.html?&tx_ttproducts_pi1...

Getting back to the original post. The term wet cardboard was used. In the shop we have material that is yellow. I can cut it to size from the rather large sheet. I’ve been told to affix it to the platen and wet it. Cycle one hit against the die and it forms as a counter. I once got a decent result but there was too much area outside the image remaining for my liking… It left a visible burnish in the sheet immediately around the emboss.
When necessary I have made counters with Bondo (auto body filler). I expect the process is similar to what Thomas has mentioned. Fwiw I’d like to try this technique with plaster (plaster o Paris??). I think it gets hard enough and sets up fast enough with only water. But plaster is before my time… I’ve barely seen five decades. I defer to the wisdom of the true professionals here..
Any insight as to the wet board? It could speed me up. I don’t always get my die exactly where I need it. I’d rather tap it around a bit while it is on the hotplate and just scrap the wet counter. Then set a fiberglass counter once I know the die is in place.

That’s exactly what I’m talking about

Wet board used it long ago and found that a bit of knife work helps and even some shellac to harden for long runs. If it is the same stuff I used before you can cut around image and remove layers as need

I looked a bit further on the website of www.drucken-und-lernen.de and also found this: Prägoplast
It looks like a modern day version of material mentioned above: http://www.drucken-und-lernen.de/Detailview.92.0.html?&tx_ttproducts_pi1...

Pragotherm
http://www.infinityfoils.com/store/Details_new.cfm?ProdID=45&category=7