Gem paper cutter not cutting

What do you mean “not cutting?” Is the blade not contacting the paper or it just won’t cut through the stack.
If the blade is not coming down far enough to touch the paper then, judging from the photo, the blade should be attached to the upper holes in the blade.

The blade is contacting the paper, but not cutting through it. I can see the indent from the blade on the paper, but it’s not cutting through. I’ve only tried 1 sheet at a time so far

You may well need a new cutting stick but judging by by how low the bolts are in the elongated holes holding the blade you may also need a new blade. Each time the blade is sharpened it reduces the depth of the blade to a point where you run out of adjustment. Try the new cutting stick first with more than one sheet at a time.

Thanks for the suggestions. Any recommendations for where to purchase a cutting stick and blade if needed?

turn cutting stick, try a piece of chipboard under the paper, does not look like there is any adjustment for cutting depth of blade

You could take out the cutting stick and see what condition it is in. They are square in cross-section and positioned in the cutter so you are cutting off center, widthwise, on the stick, and because it is square it can be rotated to cut on another side or to cut on the opposite edge of each side, so a total of 8 possible places on the stick to cut. If the stick has been completely used you could take it to a cabinet-maker and ask them to cut you a replacement from clear Maple wood, exactly the same dimensions of width, thickness, and length. That cutting stick should last a long time.

Hi Guys. It looks like yours cutter has 2 or 3 adjustment bolts at the top of the blade holder. You use these when you get a new blade to set the cutting height. If your blade is worn down you can adjust them by turning the bolts in half turns until paper cuts. Google adjusting guillotine paper cutter blades.

Before you go and buy a new blade, make sure this one is actually not useable. I suspect it is ok. If the paper you tested is indented, the blade is probably hitting as deep as it should be hitting. Try more paper, maybe cutting through an old paperback book and see if it cuts it through—trying to cut one sheet of paper is not a good test. If it cuts the book, you’re in pretty good shape. If the cut edge is not smooth, you’ll need to get the blade sharpened. If the cutting stick looks like it has a deep groove, rotate it and/or reverse it. There is probably a good surface somewhere on it yet.

I rotated the cutting stick and that didn’t solve the issue. All 4 sides have grooves and I switched it to the side with the least amount.

I tried cutting through about 10 sheets to 100lb cover, and the first 7 or 8 cut, but the remaining few were either partially cut or indented.

Can anyone let me know what the (2) bolts sticking up vertically above the blade do? Is it to adjust how straight the blade is? I’ve noticed a little bit of a wiggle when the blade hits it’s most downward position.

Read the post from Foothill

So after you have your blade adjusted down and it won’t go any further, all 5 bolts are tight and the adjusting screws on top were lowered before you tightened the 5 bolts all the way; and it still doesn’t cut all the way through. Try adding a sheet or 2 under the cutting stick. It’s an old trick that has worked for me. Good luck.

Does your blade have 2 sets of holes? If so, it maybe possible to get a spacer for the blade and use the upper holes, thus lowering the blade. Is the blade sharp? Is it cutting into the stick a bit?
The vertical screws are for leveling. Is there a gap forward/back in your cutting stick? If so a shim in front. can be used to move the stick back. You can get 4-6 cuts on each side of a square stick. There is a lot to verify here.

Does your blade have 2 sets of holes? If so, it maybe possible to get a spacer for the blade and use the upper holes, thus lowering the blade. Is the blade sharp? Is it cutting into the stick a bit?
The vertical screws are for leveling. Is there a gap forward/back in your cutting stick? If so a shim in front. can be used to move the stick back. You can get 4-6 cuts on each side of a square stick. There is a lot to verify here.

The blade is cutting in to the stick a little bit.

I did notice that for some reason, 6 of the bolts holding the blade in are 7/8 but the one on the left is 3/4. Does anybody know if that’s how it supposed to be, or did someone swap in a wrong bolt?

Right now I’m having an issue where the blade is pushing the paper into the cutting stick - the same slit that the blade is making. Could that be a sign of a dull blade?

The blade also makes a slight wiggle when the arm is dropped to the most downward position. Is it supposed to do that? Sorry can’t find any manual

Duplicate post

If the blade is making full contact with the cutting stick and not cutting, then yes it is very dull. When you put in a new sharp blade, make sure that you turn the stick to have a fresh face facing the blade. Also if the blade block is wobbling it could be that the blade gibs (wear plates if so equipped) are worn or out of adjustment. Older cutters also have worn pivot pins which cause lost motion, but won’t effect cutting action.

Agreed. If blade is contacting stick, it should be cutting paper. Prices are probably regional, but for my 25” blade in Milwaukee, it is usually $35 to sharpen. It is well worth cutting with a sharp blade. Be VERY CAREFUL in dealing with blade removal, handling, and installing. Even a “dull” blade is very sharp. If you haven’t changed a blade before, find someone who has. Proper technique is vital here.

Agreed. If blade is contacting stick, it should be cutting paper. Prices are probably regional, but for my 25” blade in Milwaukee, it is usually $35 to sharpen. It is well worth cutting with a sharp blade. Be VERY CAREFUL in dealing with blade removal, handling, and installing. Even a “dull” blade is very sharp. If you haven’t changed a blade before, find someone who has. Proper technique is vital here.

Thanks. I’ll sharpen it before doing anything else

Thanks. I’ll sharpen it before doing anything else

Thanks. I’ll sharpen it before doing anything else

Blades should have a safe carrier. 1x plank wood of proper size with a strip with a recess to cover the cutting edge. I’ve seen carriage bolts run through the back of the carrier and washers/nuts to hold the blade securely, and more recent carriers had T-nuts in the wood and washers/bolts to secure the blade. The bolts can be any size that works, not the same thread pitch as the blade uses.